Congratulations
to our latest Grand Slam finishers
Rex Headd! We had the opportunity of
asking Rex a few quick questions.
Q:
What was your first fourteener, and when did you climb it?
What got me into climbing was the U.S. 50 Highpoints. I came
down to Colorado in July of 2001 to find a place to live after
taking a job in Boulder after college. After a day of
apartment shopping, I headed up to Leadville to climb Mt.
Elbert. We were successful and I thought I had experienced the
best Colorado had to offer, boy was I wrong.
Q: At what
point did you commit to finishing them all?
It wasn't until I moved to Boulder in
October 2001 that I learned that Colorado had many more 14ers
than just Mt. Elbert. I was immediately committed to climbing
them all. I thought it was a good way to keep me in the
mountains while living in Colorado and keep me in shape for
the Western Highpoints. I spent the winter asking and talking
to anybody at work that knew anything about the 14ers. When
summer finally came around I climbed almost 30 my first summer
in Colorado.
Q: What is your favorite fourteener
route?
It is hard to pick just one, a few
come to mind. Crestone Needle, Crestone Peak, and the Dead Dog
on Torreys Peak were very enjoyable as well as Capitol Peak. I
would have to rate Capitol as my favorite, the approach was
beautiful, Capitol's North Face from Capitol Lake is quite
imposing, and the Pierre Lakes Basin just blew me away. Oh
yah, the Knife Edge and the scrambling to the summit was a
blast as well.
Q: What was your most delightful moment
on a 14er?
Several come to mind again on this
one. Summitting Capitol Peak and taking in the surrounding
beauty from the summit was quite spectacular. Both my trips
into the Chicago Basin were some of my favorite days in the
mountains. The top of the list would have to be spreading my
dear friend Lindsey's ashes from the summit of Mt. Lindsey.
Her sister Kelly was with us as well as several other of my
and Lindsey's good friends. It was a very special moment and
we were honored the family bestowed the privilege on us.
Q: What was your most terrifying moment
on a 14er?
Up until last weekend I
didn't really have an answer for this question. The only
really close call I had personally was a rock had my name all
over it while we were climbing the Dead Dog Couloir this May.
I was able to move to the side and the rock missed me by a
mere 3 feet. But last weekend while we were climbing Wilson
Peak, near the broken cliffs section just after the Gladstone
saddle, I heard Amy scream out and yell for help. I thought
for sure she had taken a fall. She was climbing a cliff
section and grabbed a large rock to pull herself up when it
slid down on her. She was holding it up with her chest and I
was able to hold it just long enough for her to get out of the
way before I had to let it crash down the slopes. It was
definitely the closest call we ever had on a 14er.
Q: Do you have any plans for future
mountain lists?
Well I'm still working on those
pesky Western Highpoints, they took a back seat to the 14ers
the last few years. I just need Granite Peak in Montana,
Rainier in Washington, and then hopefully Denali in a year or
two. As for Colorado, we don't have any formal lists planned.
I've made a mental list of some of the more interesting lesser
peaks in Colorado and we'll go climb peaks just because they
sound fun. There are a lot of peaks up in Wyoming that I want
to climb, many of the 13ers up there. Anybody that has browsed
my website
knows that the Wind River Range in Wyoming will always be my
"home range" and I definitely have lots and lots of peaks to
climb up there.
Q: What 14er did you climb last? Did
you intentionally save it for last or is it a 14er that
previously eluded you?
El Diente was our last peak. I
didn't intentionally save it for last, but when Amy and I were
down to just the Wilson Group, I made a plan that would allow
us to finish on El Diente and complete the 14ers on the same
peak. I read a lot of accounts of people having to make
multiple trips to close out the Wilson Group so I feel
fortunate we were able to climb all three this past weekend.
Q: What is the single most important
piece of advice that you would give someone just starting out?
I'll offer a few that have been
extremely helpful to our high success rate on the 14ers. First
of all, get fit and stay fit. Bike, hike, run, and lift
weights during the week, whatever you prefer. It makes the
14ers so much more enjoyable when you're not stopping to catch
your breath every 100 feet. It also helps when you really need
to cover some ground quickly to beat a storm, climb multiple
peaks, etc. Also leave early for the summit. I prefer getting
to the trailhead the night before so all we have to do in the
morning is wake up and start hiking. I used to drive up to the
trailheads the morning of the hike and found I'd be half wore
out from the drive to the trailhead. We leave extremely early
for the summit from the trailheads, 3 a.m., 4 a.m, 5 a.m.
depending on the length of the hike. We try to be on the
summit by 8 or 9 a.m. In all of our 14er hikes, we never had
to experience our hair standing on end or our trekking poles
buzzing because we leave for the summit so early. An added
bonus is that you'll have the ascent and the summit to
yourself. :-) Lastly, remember to stop and soak in the
scenery. The summit is only one point on every high country
excursion, enjoy the forests, flowers, lakes, and critters.
Even the marmots... except when they are eating your gear or
food stash. :-) |